Elogiado por Karl Lagerfeld e cobiçado pela Dior, o colombiano Haider Ackermann se mantém, de vez, na mira da moda. MÁRIO ARAUJO
Não basta ser bom. É preciso que a atenção da indústria também esteja voltada para seu trabalho. O estilista colombiano Haider Ackermann tem vivido essa teoria fashion na prática. Depois de quase dez anos da criação da marca que leva seu nome, uma declaração dada por Karl Lagerfeld à edição de novembro de 2010 da revista francesa Numéro o colocou na mira dos holofotes. “Tenho um contrato vitalício com a Chanel. Então, posso decidir quem eu gostaria que continuasse meu trabalho”, afirmou o kaiser sobre uma possível substituição. “Escolheria Haider Ackermann”, completou.
Duas frases de um dos nomes mais influentes da moda bastaram para alavancar a carreira de Ackermann e o colocar no topo da moda. Estilista queridinho de celebridades cool, como Tilda Swinton, Haider respondeu à afirmação de Lagerfeld de forma neutra e educada: “O que posso dizer sobre tal elogio? Eu me sinto honrado. Estou imensamente tocado, especialmente vindo de monsieur Lagerfeld”, declarou ao portal Women’s Wear Daily (WWD).
Foi em outra grande maison, a Dior, que o estilista se iniciou na moda, como estagiário de John Galliano (Haider foi um dos nomes mais cotados para ocupar o cargo dele na grife, após o escândalo em março do ano passado). No início da carreira, sem dinheiro, dormiu nas ruas de Paris e guardava suas coisas em albergues. Criado entre a África e a Europa – o pai adotivo, francês, viajava bastante por causa do trabalho –, Haider terminou os estudos básicos na Holanda antes de ir para a Bélgica, onde cursou a Royal Academy of Fine Arts, mesma escola que formou estilistas como Dries Van Noten e Ann Demeulemeester.
Début Fashion
Com um estilo bastante autoral, Haider Ackermann surgiu na moda em 2001. O primeiro desfile aconteceu pouco tempo depois, na temporada de outono/inverno 2003 da semana de moda de Paris, line-up que ele integra até hoje. Logo no início, se destacou por sua técnica de drapear e pelo estilo avant-garde. Na sequência, foi contratado pela grife Ruffo, especializada em couro, na qual coordenou duas coleções. Paralelamente, continuou desenvolvendo a própria marca.
O estilo singular, que evoca uma mulher sedutora e elegante, mescla técnicas de alta-costura com sportswear e dá origem a peças que têm, na maioria das vezes, a alfaiataria como base. Drapeados, decotes, cintura marcada e formas que alongam as pernas são características marcantes de seu trabalho, assim como o uso sofisticado e destemido de cores, que já lhe rendeu comparações com Yves Saint Laurent. Haider também é conhecido pelo domínio de diferentes tecidos – é comum, em seus desfiles, ver peças complexas de alfaiataria feitas de seda. Também entre suas propostas está a sobreposição, como se pôde ver em sua coleção de inverno 2012/2013, apresentada em Paris. Aplaudida de pé, foi considerada uma das melhores da temporada internacional.
Expert em moda feminina, em dezembro de 2010, Haider lançou sua primeira linha para homens em um desfile especial em Florença, Itália. As criações dele podem ser encontradas nas mais renomadas lojas ao redor do mundo, como a Barneys e a Saks Fifth Avenue, em Nova York, a L’Eclaireur, em Paris, e a Dover Street Market, em Londres. Se você topar com uma peça dele nesses endereços, vale a pena fazer o investimento.
* Esse é o perfil do Haider Ackermann que eu fiz para a edição de maio, de aniversário, da Elle Brasil. Gostou? Veja mais aqui.
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"Praised by Karl Lagerfeld and coveted by Dior, the Colombian Haider Ackermann remains, for once, targeted fashion. MARIO ARAUJO
Do not just be good. We need the industry's attention is also focused on his work. The Colombian designer Haider Ackermann has lived fashion that theory in practice. After nearly ten years after the creation of the brand that bears his name, a statement given by Karl Lagerfeld to the November 2010 edition of French magazine Numéro put him in the crosshairs of the spotlight. "I have a lifetime contract with Chanel. So, I decide who I would like to continue my work, "said Kaiser about a possible replacement. "I would choose Haider Ackermann," he added.
Two sentences from one of the most influential names in fashion sufficient to boost the career of Ackermann and place on top of fashion. Stylist cool darling of celebrities such as Tilda Swinton, Haider said the statement Lagerfeld in a neutral and polite: "What can I say about such praise? I feel honored. I am immensely touched, especially coming from Monsieur Lagerfeld, "said the website Women's Wear Daily (WWD).
It was another great fashion house, Dior, the fashion designer began as an intern for John Galliano (Haider was one of the most quoted names for the position it in the brand, after the scandal in March last year). Early in his career, no money, slept on the streets of Paris and kept things in their hostels. Created between Africa and Europe - the adoptive father, French, traveled a lot because of work - Haider completed basic studies in the Netherlands before moving to Belgium, where he attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, the same school that graduated designers like Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester.
Fashion debut
With a unique style copyright, Haider Ackermann appeared in fashion in 2001. The first parade took place shortly after the season autumn / winter 2003 fashion week in Paris, line-up that it integrates today. Early on, stood by his technique drapear and the avant-garde. Following, was hired by Ruffo designer, specializing in leather, in which two coordinated collections. At the same time, continued to develop their own brand.
The unique style, which evokes a seductive woman and elegant, blending techniques with high-fashion sportswear and creates pieces that have, in most cases, tailoring as a base. Drapes, necklines, cinched waists and ways that stretch the legs are hallmarks of his work, as well as sophisticated and fearless use of color, which has earned him comparisons with Yves Saint Laurent. Haider is also known by the domain of different fabrics - is common in their parades, see complex parts made of silk tailoring. Also among his proposals is the overlap, as could be seen in its winter collection 2012/2013, presented in Paris. A standing ovation, was considered one of the best international season.
Expert in women's fashion, in December 2010, Haider has launched its first line for men in a special fashion show in Florence, Italy. His creations can be found in the most prestigious stores around the world such as Barneys and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, L'Eclaireur in Paris and Dover Street Market in London. If you run into a piece of him in these addresses, it is worth the investment.
* This is the profile of Haider Ackermann I did for the May edition, anniversary, Elle Brazil. Like it? See more here. (Translation by Google)"
Do not just be good. We need the industry's attention is also focused on his work. The Colombian designer Haider Ackermann has lived fashion that theory in practice. After nearly ten years after the creation of the brand that bears his name, a statement given by Karl Lagerfeld to the November 2010 edition of French magazine Numéro put him in the crosshairs of the spotlight. "I have a lifetime contract with Chanel. So, I decide who I would like to continue my work, "said Kaiser about a possible replacement. "I would choose Haider Ackermann," he added.
Two sentences from one of the most influential names in fashion sufficient to boost the career of Ackermann and place on top of fashion. Stylist cool darling of celebrities such as Tilda Swinton, Haider said the statement Lagerfeld in a neutral and polite: "What can I say about such praise? I feel honored. I am immensely touched, especially coming from Monsieur Lagerfeld, "said the website Women's Wear Daily (WWD).
It was another great fashion house, Dior, the fashion designer began as an intern for John Galliano (Haider was one of the most quoted names for the position it in the brand, after the scandal in March last year). Early in his career, no money, slept on the streets of Paris and kept things in their hostels. Created between Africa and Europe - the adoptive father, French, traveled a lot because of work - Haider completed basic studies in the Netherlands before moving to Belgium, where he attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, the same school that graduated designers like Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester.
Fashion debut
With a unique style copyright, Haider Ackermann appeared in fashion in 2001. The first parade took place shortly after the season autumn / winter 2003 fashion week in Paris, line-up that it integrates today. Early on, stood by his technique drapear and the avant-garde. Following, was hired by Ruffo designer, specializing in leather, in which two coordinated collections. At the same time, continued to develop their own brand.
The unique style, which evokes a seductive woman and elegant, blending techniques with high-fashion sportswear and creates pieces that have, in most cases, tailoring as a base. Drapes, necklines, cinched waists and ways that stretch the legs are hallmarks of his work, as well as sophisticated and fearless use of color, which has earned him comparisons with Yves Saint Laurent. Haider is also known by the domain of different fabrics - is common in their parades, see complex parts made of silk tailoring. Also among his proposals is the overlap, as could be seen in its winter collection 2012/2013, presented in Paris. A standing ovation, was considered one of the best international season.
Expert in women's fashion, in December 2010, Haider has launched its first line for men in a special fashion show in Florence, Italy. His creations can be found in the most prestigious stores around the world such as Barneys and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, L'Eclaireur in Paris and Dover Street Market in London. If you run into a piece of him in these addresses, it is worth the investment.
* This is the profile of Haider Ackermann I did for the May edition, anniversary, Elle Brazil. Like it? See more here. (Translation by Google)"
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